Things to Do in Kiribati in February

February's steady easterlies at 15-20 knots create a natural conveyor belt across the 30 km (18.6 mile) lagoon. You paddle downwind past WWII bunkers half-submerged in coral heads, then sail back on inflatable rigs. Water temperature sits at 29°C (84°F). No wetsuit needed. Just board shorts and a rash guard for the UV.

Local fishermen run kite lines 200 m (656 ft) beyond the reef edge where dogtooth tuna cruise in February's clean blue water. You fly traditional leaf kites from the beach while they handle the heavy line. When the kite dips, you sprint waist-deep across the reef flat to haul in 10 kg (22 lb) fish. It happens only during the two hours before outgoing tide. Be ready. Be fast.

February's 70% humidity feels brutal at midday. Morning temps at 26°C (79°F) are good for the 25 km (15.5 mile) coastal loop from Betio's Red Beach to Bairiki. You pass rusting Sherman tanks at low tide, then cut inland through coconut plantations where the 1943 Japanese headquarters still stands. Concrete walls are covered in coral graffiti. History is right under your tires.

The 40 km (25 mile) crossing to Maiana runs smooth in February's moderate trades. No summer cyclone swell yet. You sail at sunset past flying fish schools, anchor inside the lagoon where the water glows with bioluminescence, then sleep on deck under constellations the I-Kiribati use for navigation. Morning brings reef walks at minus tide where you can walk 1 km (0.6 miles) on coral pavement. The galaxy feels close enough to touch.

February evenings in South Tarawa's maneabas feature te bino. The sitting dance uses hand movements to tell creation stories. Drums start at 7 PM sharp. Dancers paint their arms with turmeric paste that smells sharp and earthy under kerosene lamps. Visitors can join the outer circle after the third song. Mirror the hand gestures. Avoid standing until the lead dancer does.